Switching to a three-bin compost system completely transformed the amount of compost I could produce in my large garden. Not only was I able to handle waste from my own garden and household, but I also started composting waste from two neighbors—and still had room to top it off with manure from a local farm.
Now, my compost heats up faster, breaks down more quickly, and I almost always have a steady supply ready to use in my garden and polytunnel.
Here are some lessons I’ve learned over the past seven years of using this system…
What is a 3 bin compost system?
The three-bin compost system is a simple yet efficient composting system that consists of three compost bins arranged side by side. Due to its design, it makes turning compost easy, and the use of three bins makes it perfect for handling large amounts of compost.

These bins can be open or enclosed, depending on your needs. Closed bins are better at controlling moisture levels but often require more time and money to construct.
(My own setup uses open bins covered with a tarpaulin – a practical, low-cost solution for those of us with limited DIY skills!)
This system offers plenty of room for customization. Some versions add extra bins to speed up decomposition with more frequent turning, while others use gravity-based designs to make the turning process easier—variations we’ll explore later.
Pros and cons of a 3 bin system
Pros
Ease of turning
Turning a compost pile can be hard work. You need to pull the pile apart, mix it thoroughly, and then rebuild it. In the process, you have to carefully shape the pile to prevent it from spreading out and losing the insulating outer layers.
I personally find this to be too much work – I feel composting should be quick and easy, and facilitate gardening, not add a ton of work!
That’s one area where the three bin system comes into its own. Turning the compost becomes a matter of moving material from one bin into another, a task I tend to do once every few months. The bin walls keep the material contained, maintaining the pile’s shape and preserving the insulating outer layers.
High capacity
One of the greatest advantages of a three-bin system is its ability to handle large amounts of garden waste. With a pallet system like mine, you can achieve up to 24 cubic feet of space—and that’s before piling organic material above the top of the pallets! (At one point, my heap grew so tall I had to use a step ladder to add more on top. Normally, though, I try to avoid letting it get that high, as it can impede airflow in the pile.)
You’ll also notice that organic material decomposes rapidly in the compost heap. Over several weeks, the earlier layers break down and shrink, creating space for even more compostable materials. This makes the system ideal for managing continuous garden waste and keeping up with seasonal demands.
Ideal for hot composting
With reasonably sized bins in your three-bin system, it’s surprisingly easy to achieve hot composting. The outer layers act as insulation, trapping heat in the center of the pile and creating an ideal environment for thermophilic bacteria to thrive.
As I add more material, I notice that the heat gradually moves upward through the compost heap. Turning the compost into the next bin not only boosts oxygen levels but also moves the cooler outer layers to the center. This introduces fresher material into the most active zone, accelerating the decomposition process.
I’ve even seen less-than-ideal compost heaps—too wet or too dry before a quick spray—heat up again after a turn.
That said, keep in mind that size isn’t the only way to insulate compost, and turning isn’t the only way to introduce oxygen. Other techniques, such as using straw for insulation or aerating with tools, can also enhance the process.
Always have compost at different stages
One of the greatest advantages of a multi-bin system is the ability to maintain compost at three different stages simultaneously.
In my setup, I typically have one bin filled with fresh organic waste from the garden, another in the cooling or maturing phase, and a third that I’m actively using in my garden or polytunnel. This system provides a steady supply of ready-to-use compost while keeping the composting process smooth and continuous.
Cost-effective
Building a DIY system can be incredibly inexpensive. Pallets are often available for free (mine were), and you’ll only need a few screws and brackets—or even string if you’re going for the cheapest and quickest setup.
If you choose to buy pre-made bins, the initial cost will be higher, but you’ll gain significant composting capacity for your investment, often with added durability and convenience.
Easy moisture monitoring
One challenge I’ve faced with standalone bins is the uncertainty of what’s happening deep inside the compost. While it’s easy to check the top and bottom, the middle often remains a mystery.
With a three-bin system, it’s much easier to inspect the middle layers. When turning the compost, I can monitor moisture levels and add water as needed to maintain the ideal consistency.
Cons
Effort Involved
While a three-bin system is easier to turn than a traditional compost pile, it does require more effort compared to a single-bin system. That said, it’s still less labor-intensive than managing a compost pile overall.
I’ve found that splitting the turning task over two days makes it much more manageable. Additionally, there are variations of the three-bin system that can further reduce the workload—I’ll cover one of those later in the article.
Size
The very capacity of a three-bin system that makes it perfect for a large garden also makes it unsuitable for a smaller garden. A 3-bin system not only occupies more space than a single-bin system, but it will likely absorb more waste than a small garden can produce. If you do use a three-bin system in a smaller garden, you’ll find there won’t be enough volume to generate heat.
For smaller gardens, I strongly recommend an insulated bin, such as the HotBin Mk2. It can generate the heat needed to break down material rapidly, even with smaller amounts of waste. In my own garden, I also find an insulated bin perfect for winter, when I generate smaller amounts of waste from my garden.
Setup
Setting up a 3-bin system may take slightly more effort than a single bin, but it’s crucial not to overstate this.
With a pallet system, you can construct a bin in under an hour and add more as needed. Alternatively, if you purchase wooden compost bins, they can be assembled in just a few minutes.
Aesthetics
Although a 3-bin system presents a neater appearance than a traditional compost pile, it may not be the most visually appealing addition to your garden.
If aesthetics are a priority, consider opting for a single bin system or a concealed compost pile instead. If you are looking for a half-way house, you could try doing what I did and painting your bins – a compromise that worked well with my family.
Setting up a three bin system
Location
When choosing a location for your 3-bin compost system, keep the following in mind:
- Place it near your main gardening activities, ideally in the center of your beds if you have a large garden.
- Ensure easy access to a water source for adding moisture as needed.
- Prioritize proper drainage to prevent water pooling at the bottom, which can lead to anaerobic composting.
- Choose firm ground to avoid bins sinking or becoming uneven over time.
- Opt for a sheltered spot to prevent wind from drying out the compost.
It’s not always possible to get the perfect setup – mine wasn’t placed on firm ground and is now uneven! However, the more of these factors you can meet, the better.See more: Siting a Compost Bin
See more: Siting a Compost Bin
Build options
There are many ways to make a three bin system, and you are only limited only by your imagination. Here we’ll cover some of the most common methods:
Pallet Bins
For a quick, inexpensive option, build pallet bins. Keep in mind that they have a shorter lifespan, usually a few years.
As the pictures below show, they do deteoriate over time!


Five years later!!
However, they are quick and easy to construct, and for the limited amount of time and effort that goes into making them, four or five years of use is excellent.
Here’s a tutorial on how to build your own pallet bin system…
Solid panel system
Pallet systems are cheap, easy to build, and work well for most gardeners. However, if you’re looking for something more durable and efficient, a solid panel system might be worth considering.
Solid panel systems are sturdier than pallets and, when made with treated wood, can last significantly longer. They also provide better insulation, helping to maintain heat and moisture in the compost. While the reduced airflow can slow down decomposition slightly, it’s generally not a major issue as long as the system is properly maintained.
To further improve your solid panel system, consider adding two enhancements:
- Removable Dividers: A common challenge with turning compost is lifting it over the side of the bin. By incorporating removable panels between the bins, you can reduce the amount of lifting and make turning the compost easier and less labor-intensive.
- Roof or Cover: Adding a roof or cover can protect your compost from excessive rain, which can dampen the material and slow down decomposition. A simple tarp or roofing material can make a big difference in maintaining optimal conditions.
The main downsides to this system are the higher cost and the increased time required for construction compared to a pallet system. However, if you’re willing to invest the time and effort, a solid panel system can be a long-lasting, efficient composting solution.
Wire panel system
The wood used in a solid panel system is expensive. If you want to go to the opposite extreme and use a system which is both cheap and quick to set up, consider using wire and stakes to create your bins.
Here’s how you do it:
1. Place stakes – Use wood or metal stakes, arranging them in a rough circle (or rectangular shape, depending on your space and preferences).
2. Stretch chicken wire – Wrap the wire around the perimeter of the stakes.
3. Secure the wire – Attach the wire to the stakes with cable ties, making sure it’s taut and secure.
4. Repeat – Set up two more bins following the same process.
This setup is fantastic for speed, but there are some downsides. The biggest issue is that the insulation isn’t great, and the wire doesn’t hold the shape of the compost as well as solid panels, which can affect heat retention and the composting process.
That said, when a friend unexpectedly delivered a large trailer load of manure last year, these wire bins turned out to be a lifesaver. After filling up a pallet bin and a hot bin with compost, and even creating a movable compost pile on a spare section of my vegetable garden, I still had a ton of manure left in my front yard.
To solve the problem, I used the wire system—not for a three-bin setup, but for a hot bed to provide heat for my potatoes. It was incredibly easy to build and set up, and to tackle the insulation issue, I placed straw around the perimeter. The straw worked so well at retaining heat that I ended up cooking my first sowing of potatoes!

Bought system
Finally, you can buy a system. The best purchased bins use sustainable treated wood, so they will last longer than a pallet bin.
What’s more, it’s not a lot more expensive than a home-made system when you take wood and labour into account.
Best option for the USA
Greenes Fence Cedar Wood Composter
The Greenes wood composter is easy to put together (it claims no tools, but you might need a mallet), and comes in a range of sizes. I would suggest going for the 36 or 46 inch if you want hot composting.
It’s also a modular system, which means you can add on to it easily.
Do note the wood is untreated. However, cedar is a long lasting wood, and should last about 15 years – or even longer if you treat it.
Options available:
36 or 48 Inch Bin
24 inch 3 Bin System
Best options for the UK
Lacewing wooden composters
Lacewing have a range of wooden compost bin options, including ones with slatted sides and solid panels.
The bins used pressure treated pine, and are guaranteed against wood rot for 15 years.
I like the easy-load options, as they come with removable slats which making obtaining and turning the compost much easier. However, only the large solid wall option have both the width and length you need for hot composting.
Three or four sides?

When designing and building your system, you’ll need to decide if you want three or four sides to each bin.
Four Sides: If you opt for a four-sided design, it’s important to make sure the front panel is removable for easy access. This will make it much simpler to turn the compost and remove it when needed.
I used a hinge for my front panel, but you can also secure it with wire or twine if you’re looking for a more budget-friendly solution. While a front panel helps keep the compost neatly contained, it’s not strictly necessary—especially if you’re okay with a slightly more open look.
Three Sides: On the other hand, a three-sided bin can work just as well. Without the front panel, the composting process is a bit more open, which may suit you if you’re looking for a less structured system. It’s also easier to access the compost and turn it, especially if you’re working in a more relaxed garden setup.
Size
You can compost in bins of any size, but if you’re aiming for hot composting in an open-topped bin, bigger is generally better. A bin size of around 4 feet (1.2 meters) in length, width, and height is ideal. This size allows enough room to insulate the compost core effectively without restricting airflow, which is key to maintaining heat.
If you’re working with a smaller bin, you can still generate heat by insulating the edges with straw or other materials to retain warmth.
Rodent proofing
Compost bins can attract rats and other pests, as they offer both food and shelter. While it’s difficult to eliminate pests entirely, there are ways to minimize the risk.
If you’re concerned about rodents, consider using rodent-proof mesh at the bottom of your bin and covering any gaps or holes. This helps keep unwanted visitors out without affecting the composting process.
Learn more: Mice in Compost | Rats in Compost
How to use a 3 bin system
The basics
In many ways, using a 3 bin compost system is no different to any other form of home composting. Still, let’s walk through the process.
First, before adding material, you might want to consider putting a layer of sticks and twigs down. This can help trap air in the bottom. Then you want to include both brown (high carbon) and green (high nitrogen) materials. You can see some examples below, or check out our C: N ratio tables for a longer list.

I’d also suggest including some dry bulking agents to ensure free airflow in your compost heap.
You can mix the materials together, which is the optimal way to combine green and brown materials. However, nowadays most people add them in layers, as the convenience outweighs the optimization. Either way, you’ll get good compost.
Once the bin is established, you should monitor moisture. This is hard to do when the bin is full, so the best thing to do is check it as you turn it. The compost should feel like a wrung out sponge. When I turn mine in the summer, I sometimes find the center has dried out, so I give each layer a spray as I turn it.
Sometimes you might find your compost is too wet. I personally find turning can help here – in fact, I’ve been amazed at how a much-too-damp compost heap can still heat up after a simple turn.
However, you can also choose to add dry brown materials to absorb the moisture. Bear in mind that this may mean the composting process takes longer, as new brown materials will take longer to decompose than the rest of the compost heap.
Build the compost heap in one go, or add over time?
Some guides recommend building your compost heap all at once to achieve consistent heat and faster decomposition.
While this is ideal, it’s not always practical for most home composters. Large amounts of material are required, and I only build a pile in one go myself when I have a large load of manure delivered.
Fortunately, a three-bin system still works well when you add material over time, (although it might not be quite as quick). As you add fresh material, heat slowly moves to the newer layers where microbial activity is most active. When you turn the pile, however, the entire heap re-heats as the microbes are redistributed.
Turning in the three bin system
Once you’ve filled your first compost bin, it’s time to think about turning. There are three main approaches to consider: the traditional double turn, my simplified method that cuts the work in half, and Joseph Jenkins’ No Turn method for those seeking a low-effort option.
Turning: Traditional method
In a traditional three bin system, composting follows a simple progression:
Bin 1 – Initial Pile: Start by filling the first bin with a mix of green and brown materials. As the pile heats up, aerobic bacteria break down the material, generating heat.
Bin 2 – Reactivation: Once the first bin is full, turn the compost into the second bin. As you transfer the pile, ensure that the center of the old pile is moved to the perimeter of the new one, and vice versa.
This achieves two key goals: it aerates the compost to accelerate microbial activity and moves less decomposed material to the center, where the most active bacteria can work on it.
If the compost cools down quickly, use a tool like the Ejwox compost aerator – a corkscrew-style device – to introduce additional air and support decomposition.
Bin 3 – Maturation: When the compost in the second bin cools down and decomposition slows, transfer it to the third bin for several months. Don’t skip this part – in my early days of composting I had terrible results by being too eager to use fresh compost.
Turning: My revised method
Do you really need to turn compost twice? I’ve often noticed that while my compost heats up after the first turn, it rarely does so after the second. Inspired by no-dig expert Charles Dowding – who only turns his compost once – I decided to simplify my process.
Here’s how my one-turn system works:
- Use the middle bin to collect fresh compost materials.
- When the bin is full, turn the compost into the first bin, ensuring proper aeration.
- Refill the middle bin with new materials.
- Once full, transfer the compost into the fourth bin for long-term maturation.
- After using the matured compost in the first bin, repeat the process.
This method provides a steady supply of high-quality compost with half the effort of traditional two-turn systems. And the reduced turning didn’t seem to affect the final quality of the compost. In fact last year’s batch turned out to be some of my best yet!
The No Turn method
Joseph Jenkins, author of the Humanure Handbook, is a proponent of a no-turn method to minimise effort. By using bulking agents to trap air in, and straw to trap heat in, he simply builds a compost heap and leaves it to mature.
I’m sure this is viable, as it’s a similar system to the one I use with my hot bin. I’m also already a fan of using bulking materials, and I do sometimes use straw when the weather is cool. In fact, in the picture below you can see how I used straw with a new compost heap.
I left the top open when I took this picture, so you can see the grass and sawdust I added poking through, but after that I covered the top with more straw. As I added more material, I pushed the straw back along the sides of the pallet and added more straw on the top.

However, the downside with no turning is that you can’t check the moisture level of the compost heap. I sometimes combine Jenkins method with turning, so I use straw while I build the compost, and then scoop it aside when I turn it. (You can usually reuse the straw at least once before it decomposes.)
Variations on the three bin system
One of the great things about building your own three-bin compost system is its adaptability. You can easily tweak the setup to fit your garden’s size and slope, your composting goals, and your available resources. Here are some variations to consider:
Stair stepped bins
One variation I discovered in the Roedale Book of Composting involves placing bins at different heights along a slope. Fresh material is added to the bin at the top of the slope. When it’s time to turn, the compost is moved downhill into the second bin, and eventually into the third.
This design takes advantage of gravity, making the turning process much easier. Instead of lifting compost to the side or over bin walls, you simply let gravity assist as you move the material downward.
Staggered height bins
This variation features bins with different heights, which can help accommodate varying levels of compost material.
The tallest bin can be used for collecting new materials, while the shorter bins are used for more mature compost.
Two bin compost system
If space or resources are limited, a two-bin system can work effectively. Fresh compost materials are added to the first bin. Once the pile cools down, it’s turned into the second bin, where it heats up again, cools down, and matures.
The main drawback is that you may not always have mature compost ready to use. To address this, combine the two-bin system with a smaller single bin or pile for ongoing use.
Wrapping up
As we’ve seen, there are plenty of options for creating and maintaining a three-bin compost system. Whether you want to invest time and money or opt for a quick and inexpensive setup, there’s a system to suit your needs.
That said, it’s worth taking the time to plan carefully before you build. After all, your three-bin compost system could serve you for many years to come.
Once your system is established, you’ll be able to process large amounts of garden waste—and even kitchen scraps—and produce high-quality, organic compost that provides long-term benefits for your soil.
I hope you have as much fun with yours as I have had with mine!