Composting tips, advice and science.

Maturing compost in pallet bin.

The Absolute Beginners Guide to Composting

After reading dozens of books on composting, I often come to the same conclusion – the books usually make composting sound too complicated, and lack a quick start guide. 

After all, while you can get technical with composting, at the end of the day it’s a natural process. If you pile up material you will eventually get compost – and if you follow the simple guidelines here, you’ll avoid a slimy mess in the middle of the process!

So with that in mind, here’s the guide I wished I’d had when I started composting. It’s stripped to the basics, jargon free as far as possible and with links to more detailed guides if you wish to know more. 

The quick start guide

Kitchen waste and leek leaves layered over straw and chicken manure.
Above: Kitchen waste layered over straw and chicken manure in my insulated compost bin.

When leaves, animal droppings and organic matter fall to the ground, they naturally break down and enrich the soil. Similarly, if you simply pile organic material up, you will eventually get compost. By applying the following steps, we aim to speed up the decomposition process and enhance the quality of the final compost.

The following steps can be applied to either a compost pile or a compost bin. You don’t need to follow every step to get compost – but the more you follow, the better the results will be. If you’re short on time, I’ve included an ‘impact factor’ for each step to help you decide which ones to prioritize.

  1. Start with a layer of sticks, twigs or branches. 

Twigs, sticks and branches help airflow and create air pockets in the compost, which helps speed up the composting process. An alternative is to use something like a pallet, which also traps air, but for a quick start I find sticks are quicker and easier. 

Don’t lay them on too thick – all you’re aiming to do is create some air pockets, and a thick layer can harder to remove the finished compost. 

Impact factor: 2/5 

Learn more: Optimizing Oxygen: Understanding the Role Of Air In Making Compost

  1. Add brown and green materials in layers

Brown materials are those high in carbon, such as straw and leaves. Green materials are those high in nitrogen, such as grass and vegetable peelings. See materials further down this post for more detail. 

If you alternate layers of these, your compost will break down faster and be less likely to turn into a slimy mess. Ideally you want one part green to one or two parts brown, but don’t worry about being exact. You can also mix green and browns together before adding them to the compost pile. While this works well, I find it is too much trouble when you are composting larger amounts. 

Impact factor: 5/5

Learn more: The Essential Role of the Carbon – Nitrogen Ratio in Composting

  1. Add bulking materials to trap air in the pile

Bulking materials help trap air in the compost pile, and can help absorb excess moisture too. They aren’t talked about much by amateur composters, but they are one of the best ways to speed up the composting process. I often use sawdust, but you can also use materials like woodchops (ideally semi-decomposed). 

Bulking materials also count as a brown material.

Impact factor: 5/5

Learn more: Bulking agents for compost

  1. Monitor moisture levels

Too much moisture will drive air out of the compost pile. Too little, and the bacteria that works best in compost will stop functioning. Ideally, you want your compost to feel like a wrung out sponge. You can check the moisture levels by moving some compost aside, removing a handful and squeezing it – but be careful if your compost is hot!

If your climate is wet, consider covering the compost with a tarpaulin to stop rain. Covering your compost in dry climates can also help retain moisture. 

Learn more: Moisture In Compost: Everything You Need To Know

Impact factor: 5/5

  1. Turn if possible

Turning is not strictly necessary if you have used bulking materials, but I find that even a single turn can dramatically improve the speed and quality of the compost. 

The common reason for turning is to introduce more air into compost, but I also find it a useful way to monitor the moisture levels throughout the compost. If it’s dry, I give each layer a spray with the hosepipe. I don’t usually worry if it’s a little wet, as I find the turn increases microbial activity and helps dry the compost out. 

If you have the time and energy to turn your compost more often, it will speed the process up even further. 

Impact factor: 3/5

Learn more: How often should you turn compost? 

  1. Leave the compost to mature

Compost needs to be left to mature before it can be used for the first time. Don’t skip this step – when I started gardening, I had extremely bad results when using fresh, immature compost from a municipal composting center. I now give mine at least 6 months after it has cooled down before using it. 

Impact factor: 5/5

Learn more: 5 Reasons to Let Your Compost Mature for Longer

Compost bin or pile?

DIY pallet bin next to a insulated compost bin.
My insulated compost bin next to a DIY pallet bin.

Our quick start guide gave you the essential principles of composting – but should you just start a pile or should you use a compost bin? Let’s compare: 

Compost pile

A compost pile is easy to set up, and requires no building or upfront cost. However, it’s difficult to maintain the shape of the compost – I find they tend to sprawl. What’s more, if you want your compost to get hot, you need quite a lot of material. 

Compost bin

Compost bins either have to be built or purchased. On the other hand, even the cheapest compost bin helps maintain the shape of the compost. The best compost bin facilitates airflow and provides insulation, which helps improve the speed of composting and can eliminate the need for turning. 

My verdict

My personal preference is for compost bins. However, if you just want to give composting a go for the first time, and don’t want to invest time or money, I’d suggest using a compost pile. 

Learn more: Compost Pile vs. Compost Bin: Which Is Best For Your Garden?

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02/15/2025 02:42 pm GMT

Additional tips for keen gardeners

Trash can composter with a perforated PVC pipe and plants and seeds placed on top to keep them warm.
Above: a DIY trash bin composter with a PVC pipe insulated with a layer of straw.

If you’re super keen, and want more than the very basics, here are a few techniques you can consider for better compost. 

Shred or chop material: The smaller your compost material, the faster it will break down. However, balance this against the extra time and effort it takes. I find that in the spring and summer, when I have a lot of material, it simply takes too long to shred everything. 

Add a layer of compost/soil into your compost: Some composters like to include spadefuls of compost or earth in their compost. The idea here is that bacteria from the soil will quickly inoculate the compost. It may help (I quite often do this myself) but you can also compost quite well without doing so. 

Add perforated pipes into your compost: By inserting perforated pipes into your compost, you can increase the flow of air around the compost and speed up the process without needing to turn the compost. 

Insulate: If you can reduce heat loss from the compost, either with an insulated bin or with a simple material like straw, it will break down faster. Here’s 17 ways to insulate your compost. 

If you want to go even deeper, see our guide 12 Hacks for Faster, Better Composting.

Myths to ignore

1. You have to compost on bare earth

Some guides tell you that you need to create compost on bare earth so worms and bacteria can access the compost. While this may help, bacteria will always find their way into your compost, and worms seem to do a pretty good job of it too. I’ve composted in plastic dustbins, in small boxes and in an insulated compost bin – none of them were on bare earth, and they all produced compost. 

2. It’s essential to turn your compost

It’s true that turning compost helps. But it’s not necessary. And the worst thing about telling people is that the work involved can lead to people giving up composting. There are many ways to get air into compost, and turning it is only one of them. 

3. You can’t compost weeds

I’ve been astonished to hear this one from several people in my area. Weeds rot down like any other organic material, and you’ll waste a lot of material if you throw them away. That said, I would avoid composting weed seeds unless your compost is hot (e.g., compost that reaches 130-160°F/55-70°C), and I would avoid anything with invasive species like Japanese knotweed or pernicious weeds like bindweed.

4. You need to use a compost activator

Compost activators are ingredients designed to kick-start or improve your compost. They can help with your compost, but you can also compost perfectly well without them. If you do choose to use one, know that while you can buy activators, you can also make your own for free. Learn more with our guide to compost activators.

5. You need specialist equipment

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02/15/2025 02:43 pm GMT

All you need to make compost is a wheelbarrow and a garden fork. It’s true that if you compost on a regular basis, tools like a compost fork and an aerator will make life easier, and a compost thermometer is a great monitoring and learning tool, but you certainly don’t need them to get started. 

What can you compost?

Compost materials in a small bin.

In theory, you can compost almost anything that has recently been alive. However, as a beginner, it’s best to avoid some items, especially if your compost doesn’t get hot. The table below gives you some more examples, or you can dig deep with our guide to compost materials:

Easy to compostChallenging to compost
Kitchen peelings – Include fruit scraps, vegetable skins, and cores.

Straw – Ideal for adding carbon to the mix; it also helps aerate the pile.

Grass cuttings – Add in thin layers to avoid compacting; mix with “browns” to prevent a slimy, anaerobic mess.

Weeds without seeds – However, avoid adding invasive species even if they don’t contain seeds. If soil is attached to the weed roots, you do not usually need to mix with brown material, as the soil adds carbon. 

Shredded paper or cardboard – Tear into small pieces for faster breakdown. Note most glossy materials are okay to compost nowadays due to stricter regulations on ink, but can be harder to compost. 

Manures from herbivores – Rabbit, cow, and horse manure all add nitrogen. Manure with straw is ideal and does not need mixing with browns. 

Coffee grounds and tea leaves – Both add nitrogen; spread coffee grounds thinly to avoid clumping.
Meat – Meat attracts pests and smell unless you use specialized composting methods like Bokashi or hot composting.

Fish – Particularly difficult (but not impossible) to compost because of its tendency to smell. 

Oily foods – Slow to break down and can repel water from the pile.
Dairy products – Attracts pests and decomposes slowly; use sparingly in Bokashi or hot composting systems.

Most tea bags – Many contain ‘compostable’ plastics which need serious heat to break down. 

Weeds with seeds – Seeds can germinate when compost is used, particularly in cooler compost systems. Best used only in hot compost systems. 








One last note – try to avoid anything that might have been sprayed with herbicides. Unfortunately, this often includes manure. I once lost an entire season’s crop on one bed because I used manure from cows fed with herbicide-treated hay. Now, I only source my manure from a friend who I know doesn’t use herbicides.

Other composting methods to consider

Compost tumbler  by my summer house.

Want to think beyond compost heaps and piles? There are many more options to consider. Here’s a handful: 

Trench composting: Dig a trench, drop in compost materials like garden waste and veg scraps and cover with soil. Then either plant cover crops or leave for the next year before planting. Learn more

Worm composting: Worm composting is a little more involved than trench composting, but I’ve found it gives plants like chilis a super-sized boost. Using a home or bought worm system, you add bedding, add compost worms like the Red Wriggler and feed them organic waste. Here’s how to build your own worm bin in 20 minutes or less.

Tumbler composting: Tumblers are barrels that can be turned with a crank or rolled around the ground. The idea here is that it is easy to turn them and continually introduce air into the system. Before experimenting with them, note that research by Which! magazine found they take a month longer than compost piles. From my own experiments, I’ve found that cheaper options often fill with water when it rains, which leads to lengthier composting times and poorer results.

Bokashi composting: Bokashi composting uses a special type of microorganism to ferment material. I personally find them too much bother for the amount of compost they produce, and I’m not convinced by the science behind them. However, if you’re interested you can learn more with our Guide to Bokashi Bins

Conclusion

So that’s a whirlwind introduction to how to compost! I’ve tried to resist putting too much information in here, but if you want to know more do dig into the related articles below. Most of all, though, remember that while you can learn more about composting, at the end of the day it’s not a complicated process. If you are feeling daunted, just follow the quick start guide above, and you will get great compost with minimal effort. 

Compost Hacks Mini-Course

If you liked this article, you’ll love our mini-course!

Compound images of composting.

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