The Beginner's Guide to Composting

My first compost pile wasn’t great. A corner of my garden behind my garage had three walls around it, and I simply dumped my garden waste there. When I dug down after two years I got compost — but you certainly shouldn’t have to wait that long.

After reading dozens of books on composting, I keep coming to the same conclusion — they make it sound too complicated, and most lack a quick start guide. At the end of the day, it’s a natural process. Follow the simple guidelines here and you’ll avoid a slimy mess along the way.

So here’s the guide I wished I’d had when I started. Stripped to the basics, jargon-free, with links to more detailed guides if you want to go deeper.

Table of Contents

Why compost at home?

Around 40% of organic waste is currently sent to landfill, where an inefficient breakdown process produces harmful greenhouse emissions. Yet in just a few minutes a day, you can turn that waste into “black gold” — a valuable resource for plants and gardens that also improves soil health and saves money.

Composting has huge benefits for your soil and the environment. It’s easy, satisfying – and building a compost pile gives you a great reason to get out in the garden.

The quick start guide

Kitchen waste and leek leaves layered over straw and chicken manure. — Above: Kitchen waste layered over straw and chicken manure in my insulated compost bin.

These steps apply to both a compost pile and a compost bin. You don’t need to follow every one — but the more you follow, the better your results will be. I’ve included an ‘impact factor’ for each step so you can prioritise if you’re short on time.

Start with a layer of sticks, twigs or branches.

Twigs and branches create air pockets in the compost, which speeds up decomposition. Don’t lay them on too thick — a thick layer makes it harder to remove the finished compost later.

Impact factor: 2/5 | Learn more: Optimizing Oxygen in Compost

Add brown and green materials in layers

Browns are high in carbon (straw, leaves, cardboard). Greens are high in nitrogen (grass, vegetable peelings, coffee grounds). Alternate layers and your compost will break down faster and be far less likely to turn slimy. Aim for one part green to one or two parts brown — but don’t stress about being exact.

Impact factor: 5/5 | Learn more: The Carbon–Nitrogen Ratio in Composting

Add bulking materials to trap air in the pile

Bulking materials trap air and absorb excess moisture. They’re not talked about much by most guides, but they’re one of the best ways to speed things up. I use sawdust, but semi-decomposed wood chips work well too. Bulking materials also count as a brown.

Impact factor: 5/5 | Learn more: Bulking agents for compost

Monitor moisture levels

Too much moisture drives air out of the pile. Too little and the bacteria stop functioning. Check by squeezing a handful — but be careful if it’s hot.

The moisture test: Your compost should feel like a wrung-out sponge — damp but not dripping. If water runs out when you squeeze it, add dry browns like cardboard or straw. If it feels dusty and dry, give it a spray with the hose.

Impact factor: 5/5 | Learn more: Moisture In Compost: Everything You Need To Know

Turn if possible

Turning isn’t strictly necessary if you’ve used bulking materials, but even a single turn can dramatically speed things up. I only turn mine twice — it’s also a useful chance to check moisture levels throughout the pile.

Impact factor: 3/5 | Learn more: How often should you turn compost?

Leave the compost to mature

Don’t skip this step. Fresh compost is raw, coarse and acidic — it needs time for worms to work through it and improve the quality. I give mine at least 6 months after it has cooled down. When it looks and smells like rich earth and bears little resemblance to the original material, it’s ready.

Impact factor: 5/5 | Learn more: 5 Reasons to Let Your Compost Mature for Longer

Compost bin or pile?

DIY pallet bin next to an insulated compost bin. — My insulated compost bin next to a DIY pallet bin.

The quick start guide above covers the principles — but should you use a pile or a bin? Here’s a quick comparison:

Compost Pile

✓ Free — no upfront cost

✓ Easy to set up immediately

✓ Great for large amounts of material

✗ Hard to maintain shape — tends to sprawl

✗ Needs a lot of material to generate heat

✗ Less efficient composting process

Compost Bin

✓ Maintains structure and shape

✓ Insulated options speed up composting

✓ Works even with smaller volumes of material

✗ Requires building or buying

✗ Upfront cost (unless DIY)

My personal preference is for compost bins. But if you just want to give composting a go without investing time or money, a pile is a perfectly good place to start.

Learn more: Compost Pile vs. Compost Bin: Which Is Best For Your Garden?

Not sure which bin to choose? We’ve tested the best compost bins across every category — outdoor, kitchen, tumbler and worm bins. See our top picks →

How big should your compost pile be?

The rule of thumb: Many guides recommend a minimum pile size of 3ft × 3ft × 3ft (roughly 1m³). At this size, the pile generates enough heat to kill weed seeds and speed up decomposition significantly.

That said, it’s not essential. I’ve made perfectly good compost in much smaller bins — it just takes longer. If you’re working with a small space, an insulated compost bin can generate heat even with a smaller volume.

One thing worth noting: smaller, cooler piles won’t kill weed seeds, so avoid adding perennial weeds or anything with seeds unless you’re hot composting.

Where to site your compost

Central vs. near the kitchen: A central position in a large garden means you’re never too far from the bin. But if you’re composting mostly kitchen scraps, closer to the back door saves a lot of cold, dark winter trudging — a fact I’m reminded of regularly.

Shade in hot climates: Too much direct sun can overheat the pile and kill beneficial bacteria. Partial shade is ideal.

Level ground: A flat base stops water pooling at the bottom of the pile. Worth a few minutes with a spade.

Room to expand: You might start with one bin and later want a two or three-bin system for turning. If space allows, leave room for future bins alongside your first.

Learn more: Where to Site Your Compost Bin

Additional tips for keen gardeners

Trash can composter with a perforated PVC pipe. — Above: a DIY trash bin composter with a PVC pipe insulated with a layer of straw.

Shred or chop material: Smaller pieces break down faster. For large heaps I rarely bother — it takes too long. But for smaller bins it genuinely makes a difference.

Add a layer of compost or soil: A spadeful of compost or soil introduces bacteria that can help inoculate a fresh pile. I do this fairly often, though it’s not essential.

Insert perforated pipes: Pushing perforated pipes into the pile increases airflow without turning. Useful if turning isn’t practical for you.

Insulate: Reducing heat loss — through an insulated bin or a simple layer of straw — speeds up decomposition. Here are 17 ways to insulate your compost.

For more ideas, see our guide to 12 Hacks for Faster, Better Composting.

Myths to ignore

1. You have to compost on bare earth

Some guides insist you need bare earth so worms and bacteria can access the pile. While it may help, bacteria will always find their way in. I’ve composted in plastic dustbins, small boxes and an insulated bin — none on bare earth — and all produced good compost.

2. It’s essential to turn your compost

Turning helps, but it isn’t necessary. The problem with telling beginners it’s essential is that the work involved puts people off composting altogether. There are plenty of other ways to get air into a pile.

3. You can’t compost weeds

Weeds rot down like any other organic material — you’ll waste a lot of good stuff if you bin them. That said, avoid composting weed seeds unless your pile gets hot (130–160°F / 55–70°C), and steer clear of invasive species like Japanese knotweed regardless.

4. You need to use a compost activator

Compost activators can help, but they’re not required. And if you do want to use one, you can make your own for free. See our guide to compost activators for more.

5. You need specialist equipment

All you need is a wheelbarrow and a garden fork. If you compost regularly, specialist tools do make life easier — see our guide to the best compost forks when you’re ready to upgrade.

What can you compost?

Almost anything that was recently alive can be composted. As a beginner, it’s best to avoid a few items — especially if your pile doesn’t get hot. See our full guide to compost materials for more detail.

Easy to compost	Challenging to compost
Kitchen peelings – Fruit scraps, vegetable skins, cores.	Meat – Attracts pests unless you use Bokashi or hot composting.
Straw – Ideal for adding carbon; helps aerate the pile.	Fish – Difficult to compost because of smell.
Grass cuttings – Add in thin layers; mix with browns to prevent a slimy mess.	Oily foods – Slow to break down and can repel water.
Weeds without seeds – Avoid invasive species even without seeds. Soil on roots adds carbon, so no need to add browns separately.	Dairy products – Attracts pests; use sparingly in Bokashi or hot composting only.
Shredded paper or cardboard – Tear into small pieces for faster breakdown.	Most tea bags – Many contain ‘compostable’ plastics that need serious heat to break down.
Manures from herbivores – Rabbit, cow and horse manure add nitrogen. Manure with straw is ideal.	Weeds with seeds – Seeds can germinate when compost is used. Best for hot compost systems only.
Coffee grounds and tea leaves – Both add nitrogen; spread coffee grounds thinly to avoid clumping.

One important note: try to avoid anything that may have been sprayed with herbicides — and unfortunately that often includes manure. I once lost an entire season’s crop after using manure from cows fed with herbicide-treated hay. I now only source manure from someone I know doesn’t use herbicides.

Other composting methods to consider

Trench composting: Dig a trench, add compost materials and cover with soil. Then plant cover crops or leave until next year before planting. Learn more.

Worm composting: More involved than trench composting, but the results are impressive — worm castings give plants like chilis a genuinely noticeable boost. Add bedding, introduce Red Wriggler worms and feed them organic waste. Here’s how to build your own worm bin in 20 minutes or less.

Honest take on tumblers: Tumblers are barrels you spin with a crank to aerate the compost easily. The idea is sound, but research by Which! magazine found they take a month longer than compost piles on average. In my own experience, cheaper models tend to fill with water when it rains, leading to longer composting times and poorer results. Worth knowing before you invest.

Bokashi composting: Uses a special microorganism to ferment material. Personally, I find them too much bother for the amount of compost produced and I’m not fully convinced by the science. But if you’re curious, see our Guide to Bokashi Bins.

Conclusion

That’s a whirlwind introduction to composting. If you’re feeling daunted, just follow the quick start guide and you will get great compost with minimal effort. Above all, remember — it’s not complicated. Nature does most of the work.

Ready to choose a bin? We’ve spent 15+ years testing compost bins across every type — outdoor, kitchen, tumbler and worm bins. See our tested picks for 2026 →

FAQs

What’s the difference between hot and cold composting?

Exactly what it sounds like. Hot composting is when your pile heats up; cold composting is when it doesn’t. Hot composting is faster and produces slightly better compost. It’s not difficult, it just takes a little more thought and effort. For more information see hot versus cold composting.

Can I compost cooked food?

Yes but it’s worth getting familiar with the basics first. Composting cooked food is a little more challenging and is best done with a hot composting system or a Bokashi bin.

Can I compost compostable packaging?

This one’s trickier than it looks. Some compostable packaging is actually designed for industrial composting conditions and doesn’t reliably break down in a home compost heap. The labelling isn’t always clear either, though things are improving.

What do I do with finished compost?

Add it to your garden or top-dress established plants with it. You’d be amazed at the difference it makes. For more ideas our guide how to use compost.

Can I compost if I don’t have a garden?

Yes. If you’ve got any outside space at all, you can have a small compost bin. And if you don’t, there are specialist techniques like worm bins and Japanese cardboard box composting that work indoors.

The Beginner’s Guide to Composting